![]() ![]() Consider doing a quick inspection of the entire frame before you begin to shoot. You don’t want to get halfway through your stack, then realize that you’ve failed to eliminate a distracting background element. So make sure your composition looks good before you start. Even a small amount of movement will cause problems!)īy the way: Most focus stacks take 3, 5, or even 20 images. (If you’re photographing a flower, wait for the wind to stop before you begin shooting. Moving subjects will complicate the process too much when you’re just learning the stacking technique – they can easily mess up an otherwise well-executed stack – so make sure your subject is completely stationary. Pick a still subject, then carefully compose your image. Once you bring out your tripod, set up your camera and lens. That link goes into examples, but fundamentally object resizing (from progressive focussing) is manageable in software and parallax issues (from moving the camera assembly on a rail) less so.Step 2: Select your subject and compose your picture But as you said it's "practically unworkable". They rate "Bellows Rear", as you mentioned moving the body, as "Ideal" per your recommendation. ![]() But when they're at the opposite end of the equation, the realities of the situation can't be ignored. Physical laws work the same for all of us, even the marketers at Zerene.įocus stacking can work very well using the focusing ring when size and distance relationships favor that. But I don't know for sure as I can't see the OP's actual setup. As I explained, that's the function of a view camera, but a focusing rail can also get you there. The only complete solution is to move the sensor while keeping the lens a fixed distance from the scene. The laws of optics don't care about Zerene's recommendations.Ī focusing rail setup will help a lot. In the geometry of the OP's image, the technique they call excellent just has to be discarded. But when theory and reality collide, theory has to change. On objects the size of the OP's model car, they rate "lens ring (AF Motor)" as 'Excellent'. Rich, the folks who make Zerene don't necessarily agree: The most problematic method (and the one most frequently used) is simply to focus the lens on multiple planes of the scene as you have done. Or just shooting from further back and cropping may help, if you have enough resolution for your needs. Using a prime lens may help, a longer lens shot from further away may help. As you focus on the background (store front), the out of focus image of the driver's head becomes larger. When you are focused on the driver's head, that image is a particular size. ![]() Worse, there are some lenses (zooms and macro lenses) that change focal length as you change focus. Unfortunately, moving the lens also changes the magnification of the various elements of the image. You have to physically move the camera exactly along the optical axis and refocus) The next best way is to use a focusing rail to move the entire camera and refocus at each position. (Actually, it's not impossible, but so difficult as to be practically unworkable. Unfortunately, without a view camera or technical camera, keeping the lens fixed and moving the back is impossible to do. I am trying out some forced perspective.ĭoes anyone know what is creating this problem? I have read about focus breathing but not sure if this is the problem and if so, how to fix it.įocus stacking properly done actually requires the lens to remain stationary in space and the back of the camera to move, thus intersecting the sequential planes of image focus representing the entire depth of field in the original scene.Įach of the images intersected in this way is at the correct size as the lens has not varied in distance from the scene. I have attached a photo of 4 images stacked and you can see the problem halo or ghost effect around parts of the model car. I have just started testing my hand at focus stacking on PS and have run up against an issue I thought I would raise. ![]()
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